Oh, and what would be the best preset for re-calibrating my old Samsung 40″ CCFL LCD TV? Thank you so much in advance! And thanks for this amazing piece of software! So bottom line: What is the correct way to treat the display and colorimeter, is it ok to run calibrations after one another and what are truly the sweet spot settings? Also, should dithering only be enabled in registry when not calibrating? For movies I’ll most likely go with the Rec. My goal is to have one setting for work/web, one for games and one for movies. Would that affect those newer calibrations in a negative way? Should I disable dithering before calibrating?Īnd is it ok to run 6 calibrations back to back like I did there? Or is that RMS value rising each time an indicator that I shouldn’t? Then it also came to my mind that I had dithering enabled in the registry, unlike the first calibrations. Which is true? For my 2nd round of calibrations I had them warm up with the colorimeter not sitting on the display. Then I read somewhere that you’re supposed to let the i1 Display Pro warm up on its own, not being on the display. I also seem to have more banding issues on these 6 than the first 2.īefore the initial 2 calibrations I had the i1 Display Pro sitting on the screen while both warmed up for about an hour. Yesterday during the day, with some slight sun outside meaning the room was a bit brighter than usual, I ran 6 different calibrations back to back for different settings. It made me feel as if I wasted my time doing that long calibration for what I guess would be an invisible difference to the eye.īy the way, what does the RMS value stand for or represent? It seemed as if medium with 175 patches was considered the sweet spot. Then I started searching around here for opinions about calibration speed and the amount of test patches. I made a scheduled task to apply it on every startup. The registry hack worked and reduced the banding though some of it is still visible.
#I1 display pro setup for displaycal driver
(The latest driver has a severe flicker bug in a game I often play so I wait with updating it.) I have a GTX 1060 and currently driver 457.30. I noticed banding in gradients with both, after which I found out about the registry hack for nvidia drivers. This gave me the result of a dE avg 0.01, max 1.71, RMS 0.07. I ran that one at medium with 4954 patches, the “very large” testchart. When I made the gaming calibration at 95 cd/m2 I decided to try and do a long calibration and check the difference. The first one I ran at 65 cd/m2 (high speed, 175 patches) ended up with dE avg 0.07, max 1.67, RMS 0.19. Initially I did two calibrations, one for work/web with about 65 cd/m2 (I sit quite close to the screen) and one for games at about 95 cd/m2. Initially I went with the sRGB preset since I almost can’t see the shadow detail if I go with 2.2. I got the reply that it would only produce a slight difference in white point compared to the bundled white LED correction.Īnyway, I have an Acer XV240YP (144hz IPS) and an i1 Display Pro with which I’ve tried several different settings in Displa圜AL and got quite interesting results. My monitor (older Eizo SX2762W) has a 16-bit LUT table.I recently asked here about colorimeter correction profiles and if it was ok to use one for another brand and model which uses the same panel. Can I use that file on any computer, any OS, as long as it "follows" the monitor attached?
#I1 display pro setup for displaycal software
Why? Is Datacolor just better, or is Displa圜AL moreĪfter calibration, the software writes an ICC file. Inder one hour to calibrate the display, while Displa圜AL spent Does Datacolor adjust the monitor for me by programming the graphics card? And is it just that Displa圜AL does not have that functionalty? Or is it something else?Īnother "major" difference is time: Datacolors software used well Displa圜AL needs me to adjust the monitor first (brightness, contrast, and RGB-gain), before calibration begins. I also use that Spyder4 in Linux with Displa圜AL, and have some questions about those two calibration softwares:ĭatacolors software is just plug and play: I plug it in, press next a couple of times and it's done. I have a Spyder4Elite with Datacolors software running in Windows.
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